Last month’s solar eclipse inspired some Chicagoans to make the three-hour drive down I-65 to Indianapolis to experience the path of totality. One of the most popular viewing sites, the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, welcomed 50,000 guests to the “Racing Capital of the World,” and then invited them back for an even bigger party — the Indianapolis 500.
Coming up on its 108th running, the iconic race is the largest single-day sporting event in the world, attracting upward of 330,000 attendees to the massive motorsports landmark.
Regardless of whether you’re a racing fan, the Indianapolis 500 is an event that everyone should put on their bucket list to attend at least once.
The race itself takes place the last Sunday in May, but residents turn up throughout the entire month for near-daily practice sessions and events leading up to the grand finale.
And for six hours on May 26, the speedway effectively transforms into a city within the city. If you’ve never been, it’s hard to grasp just how big this place really is. Churchill Downs, Yankee Stadium, the Rose Bowl, the White House, Vatican City and the Taj Mahal could all fit comfortably inside the 2½-mile oval track with room to spare. Did we mention there’s an 18-hole golf course on the 253-acre grounds?
For drivers and fans, the event is the crown jewel of the NTT IndyCar Series racing season. Since the inaugural Indianapolis 500 in 1911, enthusiasts from around the world have made bucket-list pilgrimages to Indy. The race reaches a global viewing audience of millions across 140 countries.
“It’s a generational event,” said speedway President Doug Boles. “At some point during the Indy 500’s life, it became this thing where a granddad brought his son, who brought his son, and it just kept going. Seventy percent of our fans don’t watch another race the rest of the year.”
What is it that inspires that kind of loyalty? For diehards, it’s the pageantry, the time-honored traditions and the nostalgia those yearly trips to the track evoke.
Retired flight attendant Theresa Davis grew up about 2 miles from the speedway’s main entrance at 16th Street and Georgetown Road and has proudly attended 46 Indianapolis 500 runnings, her first in 1973 at age 7.
“My earliest Indy 500 memories are of race-related activities in elementary school,” she said. “We sang race songs and made race cars out of Circus Peanuts, and we’d go around the room telling the class who our favorite driver was and why.”
The 100-plus decibel whine of IndyCar engines lures locals to the speedway like moths to a flame, and not just on race day. Throughout May, when the weather’s nice, you’ll find folks grabbing “track pack” boxes of fried chicken from nearby supermarkets and playing hooky from work or school to catch a practice session.
But Carb(uretor) Day — the Friday before the 500 — is when things really start to amp up. Named for a now-defunct race car part, it’s the drivers’ last opportunity to squeeze in a few final laps before the big show, and a chance for team crews to strut their stuff during a pit-stop speed competition.
For fans, it’s an excellent excuse to day drink, winding down with a concert by a classic rock group such as Journey or Foreigner. This year’s shared bill: George Thorogood and the Gin Blossoms.
The Indianapolis 500 itself is, of course, the centerpiece of the Memorial Day weekend schedule. Sleepy fans — some having camped in designated lots since Thursday — start streaming in as soon as a traditional cannon blast announces the opening of the gates at 6 a.m. Sunday. People know to arrive as early as possible.
Whether you’re a devotee or just along for the ride, the people-watching opportunities as well as the pomp and the ceremony leading up to the 12:45 p.m. start are well worth the $85-$145 price of admission. Wave after wave of convertibles parade on the track to honor veterans, service members, first responders and celebrities. The anticipation builds until the roaring crowd quiets to pin-drop silence for the national anthem, followed by a thunderous military jet flyover that leaves only the most stoic visitors dry-eyed.
“I cry like a baby every year during the traditional singing of ‘Back Home Again in Indiana’,” Davis said. “Most of my adult life has been lived away from Indy, so that song really gets me. It hits home.”
Then, the famous “Drivers, start your engines!” announcement whips the masses into a near frenzy as the cars fire up and take several warm-up laps. The pace car pulls off the track and the green flag flies to signify the race is on. What comes next are three hours of 230-mph adrenaline as 33 drivers vie to add their name to the Borg-Warner Trophy, joining an illustrious roster that includes A.J. Foyt, Rick Mears, Mario Andretti, Johnny Rutherford, Helio Castroneves and Tony Kanaan.
Although quirky traditions such as chugging a bottle of milk in the winner’s circle and kissing the yard of bricks that marks the start/finish line carry over year to year, never knowing exactly what might happen on the track and who might walk away a champion makes every race a fresh experience.
Since buying the speedway in 2020, former driver and team owner Roger Penske has dropped nearly $60 million on upgrades to renovate restrooms, add video screens, and install modern AI technology to monitor entrance gate traffic and improve safety. The result is a surprisingly seamless visitor experience that runs like, well, an enormous well-oiled machine.
“Our biggest challenge is how do you honor what makes the Indy 500 special, which is so much of the history and tradition, but at the same time give it the appeal that’s going to attract the next generation of fans?” Boles said.
For one thing, you add in the Snake Pit, a flashy EDM concert inside the track at Turn 3 while the race is going on, attracting a new demographic of 25,000 young adults just looking to dance and party.
By the time the checkered flag drops and the winning driver zooms across the finish line, everyone’s on their feet, screaming themselves hoarse and high-fiving anyone within reachable distance.
And if you want to take a breather from racing, Memorial Day weekend marks the perfect occasion to visit the city’s stunning military monuments, markers and memorials, the largest collection in the country outside Washington, D.C.
THE LUME at Newfields, the city’s major art venue, offers an immersive “Dali Alive” exhibit that bathes guests in 30,000 square feet of surreal moving images set to music. Nearby, the recently opened RH Indianapolis at the DeHaan Estate offers high-end shopping and dining in one of the city’s most storied properties.
White River State Park boasts a scenic downtown canal, the Indiana State Museum and the Eiteljorg Museum of American Indians and Western Art, along with the Indianapolis Zoo and the NCAA Hall of Champions — all walkable for a wide-ranging, one-stop visitor experience. And as the largest facility of its kind in the world, the Children’s Museum of Indianapolis holds 11 major galleries across four floors anchored by a soaring Chihuly glass tower.
The Mass Ave and Fountain Square cultural districts maintain a wealth of trendy shops, eclectic restaurants and funky music venues. Fuel up with a dressy dinner at one of Indy’s signature steak houses. St. Elmo, Prime 47, Hyde Park and Tony’s are all reliably good bets and great spots to catch a glimpse of drivers and celebrities in town for the race.
Here are some Indianapolis 500 tips for first-time visitors. If possible, tag along with someone who’s been to the race before and can act as your guide.
Traffic in and out of the speedway can take several hours. Map out a parking plan ahead of time and pack your patience. Insider tip: Pay to park in a neighborhood resident’s front yard and walk in from there. Bikes, ride-shares and shuttle services are also options.
What to wear? Bikinis, tank tops, T-shirts, sundresses, cut-offs — anything goes when it comes to 500 fashion, especially if it’s black and white; or red, white and blue.
Don’t forget the sunscreen. Many bleacher seats remain in full sun all day.
IndyCars are loud. Earplugs or headphones are a good idea, particularly for younger or older visitors.
The Indianapolis Motor Speedway is a cashless facility; you’ll need a card to buy food, drinks or merchandise.
Coolers are permitted if you prefer to tote in your own snacks and beer, as many fans do.
Amy Lynch is a freelancer.
