Thick and Creamy Potato Latkes

Makes approximately 14 3-inch pancakes

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes or russet potatoes, peeled

1 medium yellow onion peeled and cut into eighths

1 large egg

4 medium scallions white and green parts, minced

3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves

2 tablespoons matzo meal (optional)

1 1/2 teaspoons table salt

Ground black pepper

1 cup vegetable oil, for frying

1. Grate potatoes in a food processor fitted with a coarse shredding blade. Place half the potatoes in a fine mesh sieve set over a medium bowl and reserve.

2. Fit food processor with steel blade, add onions, and pulse with remaining potatoes until all pieces measure roughly 1/8 inch and look coarsely chopped, 5 to 6 one-second pulses. Mix with reserved potato shreds in the sieve and press against sieve to drain as much liquid as possible into a bowl below. Let potato liquid stand until starch settles to bottom, about one minute. Pour off liquid, leaving starch in the bowl. Beat egg, then potato mixture and remaining ingredients (except oil), into starch.

3. Meanwhile, heat 1/4-inch depth of oil in a 12-inch skillet or saute pan over medium-high heat until shimmering but not smoking. Working one at a time, place 1/4 cup potato mixture, squeezed of excess liquid and pressed into a 1/2-inch thick disc, in oil. Press gently with a nonstick spatula; repeat until five latkes are in the pan.

4. Maintaining heat so fat bubbles around latke edges, fry until golden brown on bottom and. edges, about 3 minutes. Turn with spatula and continue frying until golden brown all over, about 3 minutes more. Drain on a triple thickness of paper towels set on a wire rack over a jelly roll pan. Repeat with remaining potato mixture, returning oil to temperature between each batch and replacing oil after every second batch.

5. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.

Recipe notes

Matzo meal is a traditional binder, though we found that the pancake’s texture does not suffer without it.

Cooled latkes can be covered loosely with plastic wrap, held at room temperature for 4 hours, transferred to a heated cookie sheet and baked in a 375-degree oven, until crisp and hot, about 5 minutes per side. Or, they can be frozen on a cookie sheet, transferred to a zipper-lock freezer bag, frozen, and reheated in a 375-degree oven until crisp and hot, about 8 minutes per side.

(For 25 years, home cooks have relied on America’s Test Kitchen for rigorously tested recipes developed by professional test cooks and vetted by 60,000 at-home recipe testers. The family of brands — which includes Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country — offers reliable recipes for cooks of all skill levels. See more online at www.americastestkitchen.com/TCA.)

Many recipes simply mix coarsely ground potato with flour and egg, but these tots fried up into raw, dense nuggets. Parcooking the chopped potato in the microwave was a step in the right direction, but the tots were still too heavy. Reducing the flour and omitting the egg helped, but the tots were still not light and fluffy.

To minimize the gluey texture of potato starch, we tried processing the potatoes with water. Perfection. This step rinsed off the excess starch, and a small amount of salt in the mixture kept the interior downy white.

Crispy Potato Tots

Makes 4 dozen

2 1/4 teaspoons salt

2 1/2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces

1 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon pepper

4 cups peanut oil, or vegetable oil

1. Whisk 1 cup water and salt together in a bowl until salt dissolves. Pulse potatoes and salt water in food processor until coarsely ground, 10 to 12 pulses, stirring occasionally.

2. Drain mixture in fine-mesh strainer, pressing potatoes with rubber spatula until dry (liquid should measure about 1 1/2 cups); discard liquid.

3. Transfer potatoes to bowl and microwave, uncovered, until dry and sticky, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring halfway through cooking.

4. Stir flour and pepper into potatoes. Spread potato mixture into a thin layer over a large sheet of aluminum foil and let cool for 10 minutes. Push potatoes to center of foil and place foil and potatoes in an 8-inch square baking pan. Push foil into corners and up sides of pan, smoothing it flush to pan. Press potato mixture tightly and evenly into pan. Freeze, uncovered, until firm, about 30 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Heat oil in a Dutch oven over high heat until 375 degrees. Using foil overhang, lift potatoes from pan, place on counter, and cut into 48 pieces.

6. Fry half of potato tots, until golden brown and crisp, 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally once they begin to brown. Drain on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet and place in oven. Bring oil back to 375 degrees and repeat with remaining potato tots. Serve.

TO MAKE AHEAD: Cool fried potato tots, transfer to zipper-lock bag, and freeze for up to one month. To serve, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Place potato tots on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until heated through, 12 to 15 minutes.

(For 25 years, home cooks have relied on America’s Test Kitchen for rigorously tested recipes developed by professional test cooks and vetted by 60,000 at-home recipe testers. The family of brands — which includes Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country — offers reliable recipes for cooks of all skill levels. See more online at www.americastestkitchen.com/TCA.)

Creamy White Bean Soup with Herb Oil and Crispy Capers

Serves 4 to 6

For the herb oil and crispy capers:

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup capers, rinsed and patted dry

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

For the soup:

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 small celery rib, chopped fine

3 sprigs fresh thyme

2 garlic cloves, sliced

Pinch cayenne pepper

2 (15-ounce) cans great Northern beans

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

2 cups chicken broth, divided

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon lemon juice, plus extra for seasoning

FOR THE HERB OIL AND CRISPY CAPERS:

1. Combine oil and capers in a medium bowl (capers should be mostly submerged). Microwave until capers are darkened in color and have shrunk, about 5 minutes, stirring halfway through microwaving. Using a slotted spoon, transfer capers to a paper towel-lined plate (they will continue to crisp as they cool); set aside. Reserve caper oil.

FOR THE SOUP:

1. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and celery and cook, stirring frequently, until softened but not browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add thyme sprigs, garlic, and cayenne and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add beans and their liquid and stir to combine. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until beans are heated through and just starting to break down, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat and discard thyme sprigs.

2. Process bean mixture and Parmesan in a blender on low speed until thick, smooth puree forms, about 2 minutes. With the blender running, add 1 cup broth and 2 tablespoons butter. Increase speed to high and continue to process until butter is incorporated and mixture is pourable, about 1 minute longer.

3. Return soup to clean saucepan and whisk in remaining 1 cup broth. Cover and bring to a simmer over medium heat, adjusting consistency with up to 1 cup hot water as needed. Off heat, stir in lemon juice. Season with salt and extra lemon juice to taste.

4. Stir parsley and basil into reserved caper oil. Drizzle each portion of soup with herb oil, sprinkle with capers, and serve.

(For 25 years, home cooks have relied on America’s Test Kitchen for rigorously tested recipes developed by professional test cooks and vetted by 60,000 at-home recipe testers. The family of brands — which includes Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country — offers reliable recipes for cooks of all skill levels. See more online at www.americastestkitchen.com/TCA.)

Chopped Salad with Spiced Skillet-Roasted Chickpeas

Serves 2

Note: If desired, baby spinach, baby kale, romaine, or a combination of your favorite salad greens can be substituted for the arugula. If Peppadews are unavailable, substitute pepperoncini.

2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, rinsed and patted dry

1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/4 teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon table salt, divided

1/4 teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon pepper, divided

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra as needed

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1 teaspoon honey

3/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

1 English cucumber, quartered lengthwise and cut into ½-inch pieces

8 ounces cherry tomatoes, quartered

2 ounces (2 cups) baby arugula, chopped coarse

2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1/2 cup), divided

1/3 cup jarred hot Peppadew peppers, sliced thin

1. Line a large plate with a double layer of paper towels. Spread chickpeas over the plate in an even layer. Microwave until exteriors of chickpeas are dry and many have ruptured, 8 to 12 minutes. Meanwhile, combine paprika, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in a small bowl.

2. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a single layer of paper towels. Heat oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Transfer chickpeas to skillet, spreading into a single layer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until chickpeas are golden brown and make a rustling sound when stirred, 4 to 8 minutes.

3. Using a slotted spoon, transfer chickpeas to a large bowl and toss with paprika mixture to coat. Transfer chickpeas to the prepared sheet to cool slightly (do not rinse bowl). Carefully pour off oil from skillet into a liquid measuring cup. (You should have about 3 tablespoons. Add extra oil as needed to equal 1/4 cup.)

4. Whisk vinegar, honey, Dijon, thyme, remaining 1/8 teaspoon salt, remaining 1/8 teaspoon pepper, and reserved oil together in a small bowl. Combine cucumber, tomatoes, arugula, 1/4 cup feta, Peppadews, and half of chickpeas in the now-empty large bowl. Drizzle with three-quarters of vinaigrette and toss to evenly coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle remaining feta and chickpeas over top and serve, passing extra vinaigrette separately.

(For 25 years, home cooks have relied on America’s Test Kitchen for rigorously tested recipes developed by professional test cooks and vetted by 60,000 at-home recipe testers. The family of brands — which includes Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country — offers reliable recipes for cooks of all skill levels. See more online at www.americastestkitchen.com/TCA.)

Hot Cross Buns

Makes 12 buns

Note: You can use either regular or golden raisins in this recipe. The buns can be served warm or at room temperature.

For the buns:

3/4 cup raisins

2 tablespoons water, plus 3/4 cup warm water (110 degrees)

3 large eggs, plus 1 large egg, lightly beaten

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

4 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 cup granulated sugar

2 1/4 teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

For the icing:

1 cup powdered sugar

4 teaspoons milk

1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract

Pinch salt

FOR THE BUNS:

1. Combine raisins and 2 tablespoons water in a small bowl; cover and microwave until steaming, about 1 minute. Let sit until softened, about 15 minutes. Drain raisins and discard liquid.

2. Whisk 3/4 cup warm water, 3 eggs, and melted butter together in 4-cup liquid measuring cup. Using a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, mix flour, sugar, yeast and salt on low speed until combined, about 30 seconds. With mixer running, add egg mixture and mix until dough comes together, about 2 minutes.

3. Increase speed to medium and knead until dough is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes. Reduce speed to low, add raisins, and knead until combined, about 2 minutes (dough will be sticky and some raisins may not be fully incorporated into dough at this point; this is OK).

4. Turn out dough and any errant raisins onto lightly floured counter and knead by hand to evenly incorporate raisins into dough, about 1 minute. Form dough into a smooth, taut ball; transfer to a greased large bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in size, 2 to 2 1/2 hours.

5. Grease a 13-by-9-inch baking pan. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured counter and divide into 12 equal pieces. Form each piece into a rough ball by pinching and pulling dough edges under so that the top is smooth. On a clean counter, cup each ball with your palm and roll into a smooth, tight ball. Arrange in the prepared pan in three rows of four and cover loosely with plastic. Let buns rise until nearly doubled in size and start to press against one another, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

6. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Brush buns with beaten egg. Bake until golden brown and centers register at least 190 degrees, 24 to 26 minutes. Transfer pan to wire rack and let buns cool until just warm, about 1 hour.

FOR THE ICING:

1. Combine all ingredients in a bowl until smooth (icing will be very thick). Transfer icing to a small zipper-lock bag. Cut off the very tip of one corner of the bag. Pipe continuous line of icing across center of each row of buns, then pipe icing in lines perpendicular to first to form cross in center of each bun. Serve.

TO MAKE AHEAD: Make dough through Step 5 and let rise until doubled in size. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Proceed with recipe from Step 6, extending baking time by 5 minutes.

(For 25 years, home cooks have relied on America’s Test Kitchen for rigorously tested recipes developed by professional test cooks and vetted by 60,000 at-home recipe testers. The family of brands — which includes Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country — offers reliable recipes for cooks of all skill levels. See more online at www.americastestkitchen.com/TCA.)

We found that a baking temperature of 375 degrees was low enough to set the custard gently and hot enough to brown the top before the filling became dried out and rubbery.

Leek and Goat Cheese Quiche

Serves 8

2 medium leeks, washed thoroughly and cut into 1/2-inch dice (about 2 cups)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 large eggs

2 large egg yolks

3/4 cup whole milk

3/4 cup heavy cream

1/2 teaspoon table salt

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

1 prebaked pie shell (warm), baked until light golden brown, 5 to 6 minutes

4 ounces mild goat cheese broken into 1/2-inch pieces

1. Adjust oven rack to center position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Saute white parts leeks in butter over medium heat until soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk all remaining ingredients except goat cheese in a medium bowl.

2. Spread goat cheese and leeks evenly over bottom of the warm pie shell and set shell on oven rack. Pour in custard mixture to 1/2-inch below crust rim. Bake until lightly golden brown and a knife blade inserted about one inch from the edge comes out clean, and the center feels set but soft like gelatin, 32 to 35 minutes. Transfer quiche to rack to cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.

(For 25 years, home cooks have relied on America’s Test Kitchen for rigorously tested recipes developed by professional test cooks and vetted by 60,000 at-home recipe testers. The family of brands — which includes Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country — offers reliable recipes for cooks of all skill levels. See more online at www.americastestkitchen.com/TCA.)

Rigatoni with Quick Mushroom Bolognese

Serves 4

1 pound rigatoni

3/4 teaspoon table salt, plus salt for cooking pasta

1 pound cremini mushrooms, trimmed and quartered

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, chopped fine

1 carrot, peeled and chopped fine

1/4 cup tomato paste

3 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus extra for serving

1. Bring 4 quarts water to boil in Dutch oven. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Reserve 1 cup cooking water, then drain pasta and return it to pot.

2. Meanwhile, pulse mushrooms in a food processor until finely chopped, about 10 pulses. Heat oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add mushrooms, onion, carrot, and 3/4 teaspoon salt and cook until mushrooms appear dry and begin to stick to the bottom of the skillet, about 14 minutes.

3. Stir in tomato paste and garlic and cook until fond forms on the bottom of the skillet, about 1 minute. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until evaporated, about 2 minutes. Stir in reserved cooking water and bring to boil. Add sauce and cheese to pasta in the pot and stir to combine. Serve with extra cheese.

(For 25 years, home cooks have relied on America’s Test Kitchen for rigorously tested recipes developed by professional test cooks and vetted by 60,000 at-home recipe testers. The family of brands — which includes Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country — offers reliable recipes for cooks of all skill levels. See more online at www.americastestkitchen.com/TCA.)